If you love coffee like me, then you know the struggle of trying to get by without it when necessary. Luckily, I rarely had this issue in Korea where cafes are a dime a dozen. From traditional cafes to the extreme, South Korea’s capital, Seoul, has them all. You can start your day at a cat cafe and end at a Karaoke one. In my time in South Korea, I visited maybe two cafes a day to get my caffeine fix and because of this I learned a thing or two about cafe culture in South Korea. By the time I left I had fully assimilated into the culture. Timing is EverythingIn the USA and other countries, we expect coffee shops to be open early in the morning for commuters. It is not unusual for a cafe to open at 7AM and close around 5PM to accommodate people on their way to and from work. These hours have allowed for Americans to establish a routine, wake up, get ready for work, grab a quick cup of coffee and head to work, it can be almost robotic. When you first get to Seoul you may believe the same thing. However, the times may be a bit different from what you expect. My first morning in Seoul, I was dying for a cup of strong coffee after having traveled for well over 24 hours. I did a quick Google search, only to discover nothing around me was open other than 7-11. I didn’t realize then that 7-11 isn’t like the ones we have in the USA, but rather magical places where you can buy anything from disposable underwear (yes I know) to computer mouses and everything in between. However, not all 7-11's are 24 hours there like they may be in the USA so be wary of that. If all else fails, you can do some searching for roadside coffee place. Not all Cafes are Created Equal, But Many Are CreativeThe word cafe is connotated with the word coffee. If you’re a fan of coffee you probably prefer a cafe over any other run of the mill store (I’m looking at you Starbucks). While you may feel the pull to try coffee in a Korean Starbucks, it may be more expensive than ones you can get at regular cafes. Plus, you’re in another country, why not try something new. South Korea has an absolute plethora of unique coffee shops just waiting for you to stop in. While the coffee may not be the best coffee, they do score points for creativity. You can go to any style of cafe: animal cafes, game cafes, princess cafes, flower boy cafes, and even cafes that cater to couples. With so many coffee shops, there are a lot of options. The most beautiful cafes that I’ve been to have been ones where the coffee or the food were subpar. I have compiled a list of my favorite cafes, and a few honorable mentions, that I hope you will like as well! Flower Cafe Lovin' Her (Florte)One of my favorite cafes both in concept and taste was the Florte Cafe (also known as Flower Cafe Lovin’ Her), a beautifully designed cafe with gorgeous flowers. The cafe provides you with flower crowns (be sure to inspect them before putting them on) and seats you with a menu. This is a flower boy cafe, where they operate on the idea of young dandy gentlemen being flower boys as your servers. They do have some female servers but their promotions and Instagram suggest they prefer using these gentlemen. That being said, this cafe is on the pricier side with a drink and sandwich costing around 15,000W ($15 US). They do have a 1-1 ration of drink to person so be aware of this if you go. The atmosphere is reminiscent of that of a fairytale garden, complete with a prince to serve you. They encourage photo ops and regularly post customer photos on their Instagram. They are located near the Hongik University subway exit 6 and the Gyeongui Line Book Street. They do not require reservations and a must visit if you like aesthetically pleasing cafes. Bau HouseIf flower boys aren’t your speed and you want something a little more homey, check out Bau House Dog Cafe near the Hapjeong subway station. Here you pay for a drink which covers fee for an hour with the dogs. The cafe is split into two sections: small dogs and big dogs. A good percentage of the small dogs are of the chihuahua variety so if those are not your speed they do have a section with huskies, Afghan Hounds and other large breeds, although they do keep the shelties on the large dog side. While this may seem like a sad place, the dogs are older and thus prefer a slower pace. Your drink is brought to your table and you really don’t have to do much. Even though it is a dog cafe it is quite clean, siding on sterile. They have toys and treats available for purchase if you would like to do more with your furry friends, but many are content to just sit on your lap, but don’t force them to come or they will not. One of the nice things that they do is they provide you with a cheat sheet for the dog’s names. The coffee I received was not bottled, however, I have read reviews of bottle beverages being provided to customers. I don’t know if this is a new policy or something else. Note: While you may expect me to suggest other animal cafes, I cannot. While I did enjoy visiting raccoon and meerkat cafes while in Seoul, I did not know until later the stress on the animals and that the money I paid went to importing exotic animals. Knowing what I know now, I would not have gone there. Aloha JennyIf you love fantastical drinks, check out Aloha Jenny’s where you can get a ridiculously sweet and over the top drink. Aloha Jenny is a small cafe off of a side road near Hongik University. They serve regular drinks and slushies, I opted for the slushie as it was humid and horribly hot outside. I took my drink to go, but others enjoy this small cafe. I don’t have much to report other than the cost was around 6,000W ($5.5 US). You are Here- CLosedIf your love for Korea was fostered by Talk to Me In Korean and Eat Your Kimchi (now known as Eat Your Sushi), you need to visit their You Are Here Cafe. Located away from the busy streets of Hongik University, this two story cafe features a small garden in front and ample seating inside. I did not spend much time here as I was still starstruck with how awesome the city was and overall slightly underwhelmed by it. I had visited after Simon and Martina had already moved to Japan so I’m not quite sure on the ownership of the store and from my knowledge they have completely abandoned the project due to location concerns. They do boast a small broadcasting booth where you can record yourself. Note: they are now permanently closed according to a quick Google search. CaFaceThe novelty aspect of Seoul is not easily forgotten, and this next cafe proves that. The Trick Eye Museum, aptly named for its optical illusions, is a photo op at every turn. Once you descend into the museum you’ll happen upon CaFace, a cafe that prides itself on printing your face on coffee foam. Once you purchase the drink, the barista will hand you a phone and ask you to take a photo, this will be your CaFace (coffee face). They suggest getting the drink cold as it is easier to print your picture on the coffee. While the coffee was a bit bitter for my liking it was a pleasant experience, especially after visiting the museum.
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When we first travel somewhere new we can encounter issues that we are not used to. Things like the heat and humidity, hygiene and just plain cultural differences. Below are my top 5 biggest lessons I learned while in Asia.
1. No Soap, No TP, No Toilets: Hand Sanitizer, tissues, and bracing for life
One of the biggest issues I found while traveling in Asia is the lack of soap, toilet paper, or "western toilets", things we take for granted in the USA. More often than not, I would find myself in a situation where I only had the option of squatting toilet (a popular choice in Asia). I being the graceful person I am, I would have to brace against the sides of the stall only to find when I was done there was no toilet paper. The best way to solve this is by keeping a pack of travel size tissues in your bag or pocket. When you go to wash your hands if there's not soap, just get some hand sanitizer, it works well in a pinch and will substitute soap.
2. Your International Debit Card DOESN'T WORK: find a Citibank branch or 7-11
For some reason, some ATMs in public areas do not accept foreign cards, even the ones in popular tourist shopping destination. This can be a major issue if you're in a country with a cash-based economy. For the most part, I was able to always find an ATM that took my card, but there were times where I struggled with getting money, such as places like Songshan Cultural Park which only had ATMs for Taiwanese and Chinese consumers. If you wanted to skip these issues for the most part, the best cards for travel in Asia are Charles Schwabb (USA) and Revolut (Europe/USA/Asia) cards, which forgo typical credit card fees and work worldwide. I have a debit card from a small local bank near my house, however, I have met people who swear by these accounts.
3. In Between Lodging and Have Luggage: Use a Luggage Locker
When you're on the go or just in between hotels, carrying luggage from place to place can be a complete drag especially if it's the middle of summer and 100% humidity. You may be backpacking a country or just switching hotels and your check-in is not until 4:00PM. This can be stressful for anyone, however, I've found there is a viable solution. In many regional rail and subway stations there are luggage lockers where you can lock your luggage away for a predetermined amount of time. It may be a small fee, but if you're tired of lugging things around it is a Godsend. Similarly, many museums have lockers where you can keep your luggage for a refundable fee. In Seoul, South Korea, I found that most museums would charge 250-500 Won, while similarly in Taiwan it was around 10NTD. These fees are under $1 USD and are paid in coins. While museums in the USA have this feature they usually don't have very large lockers, but I've found the ones in Taiwan are quite large and can easily fit a full-sized suitcase or carry on. This is a cheap way to explore a city until your check in time.
4. Summer Heat is Oppressive and Taking It's Toll: Stay Hydrated, Eat HOT Foods, and PRAY
While this may seem like a no brainer, you would not believe how often I woke up dehydrated after a day out in the sun in Asia. No matter how many bottles of water I drank I was still perpetually dehydrated. I realized later that I was not doing basic things to keep myself from having issues. First, bring a refillable water bottle with you wherever you go. While it may be easier to buy a 50 cent bottle at a 7-11, you will be adding to the crazy amount of plastic waste already in Asia. Instead, there are many public places where you can find a water fountain or water cooler (Most restaurants have one). Also, if you're someone who wants to stay cool, eating hot food (spice and temperature) is a surefire way to cool you down. While this may seem redundant, you are more likely to sweat more after eating spicy foods, allowing your body to cool itself down faster. This doesn't mean you can't eat cold food, especially when patbingsu or baobing (Korean or Chinese Shaved Ice with fruit) are so delicious in the summer, it just means if you need to cool down fast, add some hot sauce to your lunch or dinner.
5. Bringing too Much to Carry on Day Trips: Invest in Multi-use Storage and Minimize Heavy Objects
I admit it, I'm a serial overpacker, even on day trips, and when I'm overseas in a place where it's hot, humid, and I can't communicate well I've made some mistakes. One of the biggest mistakes I've made? Carrying guide and language books around on day trips just in case I need them. These items are heavy and don't really help very much when out and about. While you can purchase them prior to a trip, keep them in the hotel, your phone may be a better option with live offline translations et cetera at your fingertips. You can also create offline maps on Maps.me which uses GPS coordinates and no data to track your location. This will significantly lighten your load and make it easier to enjoy your trip, without cumbersome bags. This tip goes for books you read for pleasure, if you can download it to your phone or Kindle it takes up less space and provides some relief. Your backpack or purse is your best friend. If you like to bring your camera like I do, I would suggest buying a bag that has a padded section for your camera (Here's my bag). I carry a DSLR for most of my travels and it can be HEAVY, plus all of your day to day travel items are rattling around the bag with it. When I was in Korea, I made the mistake of using a regular purse and putting a smaller camera bag inside of it. By the end of the day my shoulder was covered in red marks from the straps being weighted down with my camera. Travel camera bags are not much more expensive than a backpack or purse, and they have larger straps to distribute the burden. The backpag I use is a GoGroove bag and it was fantastic, compact but really used space well! If you don't feel like carrying a bag, buy a fanny pack or money belt, this will keep items out of your pockets (and away from any pickpockets) and secure credit cards, passports and phones. I would suggest even investing in one that hangs around your neck instead of going without. Finally, you carry a lot in your hands when you travel: maps, phones, the odd beverage or to go food item. If you can find one, purchase a drink holder from a street vendor. These holders have straps that you can slip on your arm and allow you to carry any drink with ease as it frees up your hands. If you're in a country like Korea or Taiwan you will see a lot of these as they are so useful for carry other items as well.
Over the past few years I have been asked to compile a list of all the MUST see places in Philadelphia. As a woman, I am constantly aware of my surroundings so I set out to create a map of places that are solo female friendly that are also easily accessible. With the map below you can pinpoint specific places you want to visit while you’re in my humble city. This map is updated weekly and can provide a great resource for out of town visitors.
As always, pay attention to your surroundings and make smart decisions.
“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” ― Terry Pratchett, A Hat Full of Sky So you've decided to go to South Korea for vacation or maybe work and don't know what to pack? Are you concerned about getting around? Maybe you aren't sure about what is essential overseas. Here are the top 10 travel must haves for South Korea, specifically Seoul. 1. A Translator App If you're not fluent in Korean or English this is extremely important. In my experiences, most Koreans I met did not speak English well enough to communicate with outside of common phrases so an app that does the translating for you is so useful. I like Google Translate as it has an option to do real time translation either through speech or with your phone's camera. This especially came in handy when looking at different signs in Hongdae or even just looking at bus schedules. I speak very basic Korean which, when communicating with people just was not enough sometimes. If I had not had this app I would have missed out on several free events and probably gotten lost a hundred times. This was also the most accurate of the translator apps I tried using while in Seoul, luckily most of the signs and subway announcements were in English, Japanese, Chinese, and Korean. 2. Clothes that COVER The number 1 rule when traveling is pack light, for me this meant lightweight clothing that was versatile. choose clothes that you can mix and match, while also being stylish. I made the mistake of bringing WAY too many clothes, I didn't even wear some of the stuff I brought since I bought clothes during my travels. If you don't have access to a washing/drying unit like I did, make sure you have clothes that do not retain smell and can be worn again. While it is 2017, South Korea is still pretty conservative when it comes to clothes. However, the societal rules are more so for women than men. Women should not bare their shoulders or show their chest, while most Korean men will not wear tank tops out either. One thing that is interesting is the fact that showing your legs is a-okay. With this in mind, most of the clothes I wore had high necks and were not necessarily tight but still form fitting. Crop tops and the like seem to be more or less okay depending on the style. I also had a cover up that I purchased on Amazon prior to my trip that I wore for the duration. If you're going in the summer you'll definitely want something lightweight with long sleeves so that it can double as a shrug in the cooler evenings. Likewise, if you're going in the winter, lightweight fabrics may not be the best choice unless specifically made for the cold, this is an instance where less is more in terms of items, layering is a must so bring layers that you can switch it up every once and a while. 3. Cash Seoul can be frustrating without cash, like more than it should be. Not all ATMs take foreign debit/credit cards and South Korea is called a cash-based economy for a reason. In order to even get on the subway to travel to your accommodations you'll need to exchange money in the airport, I exchanged $20 USD (literally all of the money I had on me when I landed) and was able to get everything I needed in terms of money for the rest of my trip through ATMs. Most subway stations have global ATMs where you can pull money from a bank account, just make sure your card has a chip since without that chip you're basically unable to get money out anywhere. CitiBank (a US based bank) has several branches in central Seoul and has one of the better exchange rates (3,000 KRW, versus the 4,000 KRW elsewhere). I usually withdrew money in 100,000 KRW increments as that much usually lasted me a few days before I had to get more and the exchange rate was fixed and not incremental so taking out more was more economical. Compared to the United States South Korea is much cheaper. For reference, an expensive meal in Seoul was 14,000 KRW (~$12.40) or more per person, a shirt at a Hongdae shop may set you back 10,000 KRW (~$8.86), a fresh bag of Mandoo from a subway station would cost 3,000 KRW (~$2.66), and a ticket to visit all four Seoul palaces is only 10,000 KRW (~$8.86). Even the subway systems were cheap, for the first 10 km it costs 1,250 KRW (~$1.10) after that an additional 100 KRW is charged per 5 km. Bus prices varied based on the type (between 700-1,250 KRW): yellow, red, green, or blue, green and yellow being the cheapest, and red the most expensive. Almost all of the transportation besides taxis require that you refill your transportation card in cash, so if you're short on cash one day and have 200 KRW left on your card, you're going to need to find an ATM. In order to go ANYWHERE in the city, you need a T-Money card which you can purchase at almost any GS25 or 7-11. 4. T-Money Card Upon your arrival in Seoul or Busan you can purchase a one time rail pass (return it when you get to your location to get 500 KRW back, yay recycling). Once you do this search out somewhere where you can purchase a T-Money card. T-Money cards or Cashbee are essential for traveling in or around Seoul. They can be purchased in almost every convenience store in Seoul and typically cost around 2-4000 KRW depending on what you purchase, I like the Line Friends cards so I had a Ryan subway card that I still have. Some Koreans and ex-pats have debit cards that also double as transportation cards. These cards can be used in a number of ways, you can pay for subway, bus, and taxi fares easily with just a tap and are refillable at most convenience stores and subway stations. This is the BEST thing ever as it is just so easy and much more foolproof than US based travel (I'm looking at you MTA). 5. Power Converters and Portable Power Banks Bring more than one, bring five, just do it. This will save your life when trying to navigate the erratic Seoul streets, Hongdae and Itaewon are literally mazes. I was not the sharpest tool in the shed (is this going to be a copyright issue?) and only had one working power converter, I ended up having to purchase another one when I realized my problem. The good thing is they use the same adapter as Europe, the bad part is you won't find many power converters, but you can easily find a power block anywhere, except for the one GS25 in Hapjeong station. Try to bring one that has a three prong hole and one that has a two prong adapter. My two prong adapter basically just attached to a US power block and plugged into the wall. My three prong however FAILED ME. I did end up getting an adapter with a USB port from a convenience store to replace my failed adapter. If you can, before your trip, try to find a charging cable that has several different charger types from micro-USB, Lightening, et cetera, since these typically allow you to charge more than one thing at a time. For example, at any given time I was charging one or two portable power banks and my cell phone. If you don't already own a portable power bank go out and buy one, or seven. I arrived in Seoul with two and left with three. Easily one of the best purchases I've ever made, especially as an iPhone owner. My phone's battery drains quickly and that was excelled by my constant need to use Maps and GPS to get around and translation apps, plus I was also running my Instagram and Facebook (Hey mom and dad I survived) during my down time. Most decent ones cost maybe $10 in the states and are worth every cent, I cannot stress how many times my phone almost died when I was far from my AirBNB at night and had one of these to charge my phone while I figured out the best route home. 6. A Phone SIM card or WI-FI hotspot Korean 3G wireless coverage is honestly better than most LTE coverage here in the USA, plus it works in the subways, everywhere. I purchased a 5 GB phone plan through EG SIM card services. It was pricier at 65,000 KRW (Curse you apple for your mini-SIM cards), but well worth it as it didn't need charging and I was able to connect to private Olleh WI-FI hotspots throughout the city because I had Olleh coverage. In 17 days, with constant internet usage, I ran out of data when I was boarding my plane back to the USA. While I personally did not use a WI-FI hotspot, my friends did instead of getting a SIM card. For them it wasn't feasible as they were only in Seoul for 5 days. Personal WI-FI hotspots range from $50-90 to rent or buy, something I did not want to spend money on at the time since I was getting better coverage through my phone SIM card. These WI-FI hotspots do need to be charged in order to work, so if you're out all day away from outlets buyer beware. 7. A Reliable Camera Be it your phone or an actual camera this is essential. You're abroad in another country and should document your experiences, both good and bad, for the future. I personally travel with a Canon T6s DSLR and my phone, but I do know others who do just as well without the camera. My camera specifically has it's own personal WI-FI network that connects to my phone as a shutter control and allowed me to actually download pictures I took from camera to phone without a computer. There were times when that came in handy, like when there was no one around to help me take the pictures or I just did not want to deal with anyone. I just put my camera on a low wall or gate and snapped away with my shutter hidden behind my back. I wish I had taken more pictures while I was there and it's something that I really do regret because the country is just amazing. 8. A contact where you're going I know meeting people online can be sketchy so you should always be on your guard. However, about five years ago when I was in high school, I did become friends with a Korean high schooler who lived in Seoul through a website called Interpals. He was the first person that I met when I arrived in the country and was the best tour guide I could ask for when it came to the sights. It can be scary going to another country, but it put my parents, who worry like crazy, at ease that I was meeting someone I already knew over there. While this is not a requirement, it can be useful if there's a language barrier or it's your first time operating transportation in another country. I did not rely on him for everything, rather we would meet up every so often and go to different locations in the city. If you're ever headed to Seoul and need someone to show you around send me an email and I'll put you in contact with my favorite tour guide in Seoul. 9. Kakao apps, ALL of them Seoul literally runs on these apps. Kakao Talk is how most people communicate, KakaoBus is the go to bus schedule, and those apps will save your sanity. They even have a taxi service Kakao app that is amazing when you're in a hurry. It is all in Korean but hey if you can read the alphabet and know military time it's not too bad. This is more accurate than Google Maps and also has a feature that shows you how far a bus is from your station in real time, very useful. 10. Tissues and hand sanitizer This may seem like the weirdest thing on the list but it is arguably one of the most essential. Not all bathrooms are created equal in Seoul and have toilet paper in them. Tissue packets are vital in this instance as you never know when you'll need them (Also don't flush toilet paper it clogs the drain). You can purchase tissues at any convenience store for around 800 KRW, if you want the cute ones, and 700 KRW if you want standard ones. The hand sanitizer thing is for all of those moments when you get out of the bathroom and there is no soap or the soap is bar soap, it's mostly peace of mind more than anything else. What are your top 10 must haves when traveling to South Korea? Did I miss anything that you think “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” – James Michener Traveling solo is hard, traveling solo as a woman is even harder. One of the most difficult things about traveling abroad is the loneliness, especially when eating. One moment you're in your home country eating at familiar restaurants or maybe trying that new restaurant that your friends recommended last week. The next you're in an unfamiliar place, maybe the next country over or a world away, you do not speak the language nor do you know the places around you, you could be steps away from a famous restaurant or that really delicious street vendors vloggers rave about. The adjustment that you have to go through can be jarring at first, it can even make you feel as if you should just go home because it's too difficult to bear. Below are some tips and tricks to make your experiences eating abroad more enjoyable. 1. If you don't know the language well it's okay I know what it's like to not speak the common language of the country I was visiting, in fact, most people where I was did not speak English well enough to communicate with me. The first thing I did before I left the US was to learn phrases that I could use when I was traveling so I was not in a situation where the barrier was impossible to overcome. Phrases like "juseo" (Please), "mul" (Water) and "yeogiyo" (Excuse me) went far when ordering food. Another thing you should do is learn basic numbers, like 1 (hana) or 3 (set), so you can communicate with your server what you want. While there are still issues that may arise, these alleviate some of those awkward moments. If you have allergies, make sure that you either bring something with you or learn the phrase that states your allergy so as to not experience cross contamination or a reaction. 2. Embrace the silence Eating alone can be one of the most freeing things in the world. No one to judge you on what you decide to order, no concerns about who is going to foot the bill or what you can afford, and most importantly no need to talk to anyone other than your server. This lets you spend time doing things that you want, maybe read that book that you've been meaning to get to or watch the people on the street. 3. Tipping is not always mandatory If you're from the USA, you know that when you go out to eat you should tip your server since they almost always rely on those tips to survive. In other countries however, this practice is not as common. Instead, servers are paid a standard wage, in South Korea especially, the servers may also be either the owner or their family. If it's not a part of the culture don't worry, just eat your food, pay, and leave. 4. Food costs may be different too Remember, supply and demand. In a different country, they may not have the same types of cuisine or ingredients that you're used to. In the USA, a slice of melon may be worth 50 cents, but in Korea, that lush slice may be more like 4000 won, or $3.65, due to the country's import of fruit. A watermelon at a fruit stand may set you back $30. The same way, in some cases things that you may be used to eating for very little money may be more expensive and vice versa. 5. Branch out
It can be easy to seek out food that you've eaten before or chain restaurants, but you'll find more enjoyment from looking for those small mom and pop shops. I found most of the restaurants from my trip by wandering around looking for places that either served a traditional dish I was looking for or that was filled with locals. If it's filled with locals it most likely is a favorite among them and will be somewhere where the food is delicious. By doing this, I went past the streets by the subway and explored different sections of the city, sure I had to walk more, but the benefit was worth it. 6. Use social media Pay attention to different places advertised on social media, they may just be the next best place for you to visit. While on my trip, I was followed by an Instagram account for "Cafe Lovin' Her" a flower boy cafe in Hongdae which I later visited later on. Sometimes those places, while off the beaten path, may just be what you needed. Other times, pay attention to where other people may have visited when they were in that city by checking hashtags and geotags. You never know when your next meal will be the best. 7. Enjoy yourself Just go out and enjoy yourself, you will not regret it. |
Author“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” – Saint Augustine Archives
April 2019
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